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Thursday, 26 March 2009 13:07

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Football design does not always necessarily relate simply to the presentation of football clubs and players on the pitch.

The style carried by football fans is also an ever-changing element and can convey fashion and social trends. From the flatcap and suit wearing supporters of pre-war years, via their skinny jeaned and adidas Gazelle-wearing counterparts of the 70s, the most recent image is that of Burberry and Stone Island.

But society and the fan are transforming again. One most pertinent example of the latest development is the new range of football scarves released by WONG WONG.

We spoke to the company's creative director Stephen Wong.

Stephen, thanks for taking time out to speak to us. Could you tell us a little about your background and how WONG WONG came about?

I arrived in New York City in 1995 to study graphic design at Fordham University and following school I worked for the fashion house Helmut Lang, where I served as Art Director from '99 thru '05. I was lucky to work with a lot of talented designers, photographers, and individuals during my time there and it was a great experience. I then became Art Director for hl-art from '05 through to October of '08 when I decided to focus all my time and energy on my own projects full time, including WONG WONG.

So has football always been something in the background that you wanted to move towards from a design point of view?

To be honest I never really imagined my next project would be football related. I was always a fan first and foremost but life is funny like that. One minute you're working in high fashion in NYC and Paris and the next thing you know you're designing cashmere footie scarves with "PENETRATION" or "DOUBLE TEAM" on them.Indeed. Wherever the fates lead us let us follow. Is there a particular football team that you support?

I am an Arsenal supporter. In Arsene We Trust.

Aha. Obviously there seem to be the colours of well known football teams in your scarf range, possibly even The Gunners. Are there any other particular combinations of colours that teams use that get you excited as a designer?

Many say that colours have a profound effect on how people feel mentally and physically. For instance, for big sporting matches some clubs will ask all the fans to wear red to the stadium because they are of the opinion that the sight of this will improve the players' on-the-field performance (red apparently increases blood pressure/heart rate/aggression). I believe in that theory and it's comforting since Arsenal happen to wear red and white.

I love the fact football club and national team colours are so identifiable and recognisable. If someone sees blue and black, they think Inter. If it's light blue and white, they know it's Argentina. That aspect is very fun to work with. In addition, for my own personal design and identity (as you can see from my website) I like to work with orange.

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A man after my own heart. In more general football design terms, are there any iconic shirt designs that are up there with the likes of the mod suit or the 80's Armani suit in terms of importance when it comes to the evolution of fashion?

Kit designs are really what got me interested in the design aspects of football in the first place. I loved the history behind each kit, the thought and technology that went into them, and so on. To this day I still follow all the release rumours obsessively and it's also how I came upon sites like footballshirtculture.com, uniwatchblog.com, etc.

In terms of design, there are a lot of iconic shirt designs out there. You only have to look at all the new batches of kits that have been released lately that reference designs from each club's glorious history. That is one of the main drawing/reference points for manufacturers like adidas and Nike.

In terms of evolution, however, I would say the most important change throughout the years has been the change in design, technology, and most importantly the fabric/materials used in manufacturing the kits. If you look at kits from just 10-15 years ago, they were boxy, made of heavy polyester, and were very utilitarian whereas today they are lightweight, fitted for better movement, vented and/or heated, and wick away sweat to keep players dry.

That, I think, has been the most revolutionary aspect of football kits over the years.

Going back to your scarves, are these intended to be worn at grounds or solely as fashion items?

I would say like football, it's intended to be shared/worn by everybody.

Obviously the designs on the scarves are borne of football phraseology but within a double-entente/entendre that holds a sexual connotation also. What kind of target market do you have for these kind of items and how important in a design respect is the choice of words?


When I started out designing the scarves, my intention all along was to leave them open to interpretation. I selected phrases that were familiar football terms but also had sexual overtones to them.

I thought it would be an interesting process to see what people's reaction would be when they first saw them. The football fan would see the scarf, the colours, and the words and understand that this is an interpretation of a footie scarf while at the other end of the scale would be people that have never watched a football match in their lives and know nothing about the culture of the sport but see PENETRATION and either like the graphics and have a sense of humour about it or look at me with utter disgust. I like that.

Coming from a fashion background I am reaching out to the fashion crowd (we launched in Colette in Paris) that enjoy colourful and graphic designs while also trying to attract the football fans that are looking for something a bit unique and special that they can wear to the ground or wear out.

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But for the fans, the use of terms on the scarves aren't universally flattering to the teams. For example, let's say the green and white scarf is suitable for Celtic fans, would a Celtic fan specifically be inclined to wear a scarf that implied his or her team played long ball football?

The goal was to match each phrase with the club that played that brand/style of football on the pitch. For instance, The Gunners play an attacking style of football so I selected Penetration, Juve play more of a defensive game so I felt Double Team was appropriate. Obviously each club's style of play changes over the years but that was not the only determining factor. From a design perspective I tried to create a scarf that looked graphically and visually interesting when flat/when worn, which colour combinations worked with a particular style of font, how did the colors and font work with the background pattern, etc. so there were other factors to take into consideration.

The prices are noticeably high in comparison to what the average football fan would spend on a club-specific supporter scarf. The items are cashmere so obviously of quality but does the creation of high-end football supporter products reflect the evolution of the football fan into a more affluent example of society?


I think so. Football fans today are a reflection of the how the sport has grown and changed, especially the last few years. You only have to look at the amount of money being invested into clubs, players, marketing, stadiums, TV rights, etc.

The sport is a business now more than ever and in order for it to be successful, clubs must cater to a much more affluent audience like never before.

And I'm not the first person to take notice of this fact. Comme Des Garçons designed some incredibly fantastic football scarves for one collection. D&G dressed the Italian National Team for the World Cup and were recently in the press for collaborating with AC Milan.

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Looking at the scarves, specific club suitability is deducible but there are lots of fans that won't be catered for. Do you have any more styles and colours on the way?

We hope to launch our second collection, footie_second leg, in the near future. The collection will include 6 new designs and big clubs from Italy, Spain and the UK will be represented. We are also working on a number of other projects for 2010, including a collection for the 2010 World Cup in South Africa.

And for the future of sportswear design and/or fan fashion, which direction do you see clothing and accessories moving in?

Sportswear giants like Nike and adidas will continue to explore new ways to improve athletes' performance through research and technology and the question will become how much is too much.

For example, during the recent Beijing Olympics there was a lot of heated discussion over the Speedo Fastsking LZR suits and that it provided those swimmer lucky enough to get one a distinct advantage over their competitors.

For fashion fans, trends are always cyclical so whatever you wore back in the day will eventually find its way back to the forefront again. Count on it.


I'll hold you to that. Well thanks very much and for all those who would like to check out the WONG WONG range please

visit http://www.wongwong.com


Interview by Jay

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