Kit Design Tutorial for BeginnersHere

Dave Woods paused for effect immediately after delivering the dramatic news. With Channel 5 having hit the jackpot with their serendipitous adoption of Athletic Bilbao's Uefa Cup campaign - and reclaiming the formerly mocking "Thursday Nights on Channel 5" chant with all stigma banished - the commentator now had the opportunity to consolidate this success with a surefire winner. News had come through that Atletico Madrid were through to the Final and should Bilbao get past Sporting Lisbon to meet them then they would be nominally the away team and, wait for it, be required to wear their green away shirt.

When a football shirt has even got the commentators onboard you can say with some confidence that the design's hit the spot. In the case of Athletic Bilbao, the shirt benefits from being coupled with a successful side playing football regarded in a similar bracket to Barcelona and Swansea City and with a ruthless attacking flair akin to that displayed by Tottenham Hotspur in the first half of the season.

So the connotations of the shirt are sound, what about the aesthetics?  When the kit was first released the admiration was resounding and as time has gone on it has grown on even those who were unmoved.  If you look for a purpose in a shirt's makeup then the lifting of the Basque Country's Ikurrin's (flag) colours, a local company's classy logo as sponsor and the standard inclusion of the local coucil's oak leaf logo on the sleeve should suffice; its obvious resemblance to the Basque national team's shirt (combined with the club's status as a national team by proxy) was always going to catch the eye as a handy bonus.  Throw in a touch of fraternité with Irish/Celtic fans sympathetic to the separatist region's cause - and always on the lookout for new and exciting ways to contribute to their own seas of green - and popularity is almost guaranteed.

But there is one key element included that has translated across (and in spite of?) teams, colours and connotations and been the standout design feature of the 2011-12 season.  The chest bar/stripe has appeared on some of the best releases of the season and its effect is demonstrated perfectly on the Bilbao shirt, where its continuation onto the sleeves makes for an instantly recognisible kit and the perfect interpretation of a club's most treasured flag.  The same approach (for that read "template") was used on the Rangers Away shirt and, although the Union Jack is not as obvious, the block colours are equally striking.

The feature also tasted victory on Wednesday night when, adorning the white kits of Chelsea in their formidable defeat of Barcelona, it may have shoehorned its way into the London club's folklore - not least through being carried by Fernando Torres when he executed and celebrated one of his few goals for the side.  This beautiful Third shirt has been criminally underused this season - which is especially confusing when we consider that their Away kit is black and Birmingham City binned their own similarly coloured second strip because it failed to provide an adequately non-clashing alternative when playing against teams in darker shades of blue.

So the feature could almost be regarded as synonymous with European competition success and its appeal spreads far and wide.  If we go back to Euro 2008, Germany wore a back chest bar with gold and red trim which included their player numbers in white - in contrast to the numbers on the back of the shirt in black - and this was one of the shirts of that tournament.  Go back even further and we come across thinner stripes horizontally on France shirts in the Eighties and one of the most iconic England shirt designs made so by a coloured bar across the chest/shoulders.

There are variations - Spurs' popular Puma shirt of 2010-11 featured a shoulder/chest bar at an angle - but as a general component it usually seems to work however it is applied.  Brazil's "loading bar" shirts didn't last long and may have pushed the concept to its limit in demonstrating a lack of unity between the bar and the rest of the design but it could well be the exception that proves the rule.

Personally, I think the feature has made 2012 its own, which is why I chose kits including a chest stripes to represent DF on the League of Blogs Wallchart.  With the possibility of the aspect contributing to the winning of both European club trophies this season, Poland - who with the Ukraine host this summer's European Championships - or Italy, via their away kits, could even give it a hattrick.
 

 

The geniuses at Nike have done it again. If you are not aware, they were responsible for the recent debacle of releasing a pair of trainers for St Patrick's Day, which were described in the clumsiest of Guinness-referencing adjectives, and named, I kid you not, after the moniker given to the horrendously vicious British paramilitary unit which tortured and murdered Irish people in the early 1920s, the Black and Tans.

The only explanation for this PR disaster must be that a little word association popped into the mind of a marketeer and a quick Google of "Ireland black tans" gave enough - unchecked - results to apparently vindicate the now full-steam-ahead development of this project. Despite the obvious offence caused, the notion of this campaign being discussed in passing at an office water cooler in Portland, Oregon, leading any employee with a modicum of knowledge of Irish history to feel the blood drain from their face, offers a comical subtext to the farce.

And, as I say, they've done it again. This time the consequences are far less offensive and far less perversely misguided but they do again concern a lax grasp of details relating to history, in this case that of Liverpool Football Club.

LeBron James, the American basketball player, has had a pair of signature shoes made in his honour and these are decorated with graphics relating to Liverpool's history - via Nike's peculiar twisting of the facts.

I like Mr James. It's fun to see his enthusiasm for his business concern in the North West of England - he is a partner of Liverpool's owners Fenway Sports Group - and his carrying of non-adidas-branded club shop tat that would otherwise go unsold but for his contractual eschewing of Nike's rivals. The smile is wiped from our faces, however, when we see Nike produce trainers in his name, in a questionable colourway, which carry depictions of 18 Premier League trophies - denoting the club's English league titles, all won before the inception of the Premier League - and a heel detail "inspired by" the Liver Bird but looking more like a griffin defecating.

Despite the Liver Bird not being trademarked it would obviously be beyond audacious - and bound to provoke legal action nonetheless - if Nike had used an intrinsic part of the Liverpool crest on a pair of shoes which references the club, but for me this is easily resolved. Just don't make the trainers. And had Nike run the designs past fans of the club then they would never have been put into development.

Nike have had a welcome impact on football design and are now, with a little help from their subsidiary Umbro, receiving regular plaudits for their drawing board approach and for their ethics. In fairness, the indiscretions outlined - and the latter is not the first involving LeBron James - are unrelated to the Nike Football section of the company, which has again boosted its own reputation with its Euro 2012 releases and the new Celtic kit, but a brand is a brand and when you begin to risk the sales of Ireland shirts (Umbro) and, for similar reasons, the aforementioned Celtic shirts, not to mention your entire sportswear range in Ireland and in the sportswear-loving East End of Glasgow and Merseyside, it may be time to put a little more R into your R&D.
 

 

As I have mentioned before, somewhat unconvincingly, the "football" in "football design" doesn't have to refer to association football.  There are several other codes which fall under that umbrella term.

I've already covered rugby and there is of course plenty to write about in Australian Rules football and American Football, but this time I'll focus on the Gaelic Athletic Association's version of the sport and its virtually synonymous primary kit manufacturer, O'Neills.

O'Neills Sportswear was established in 1918 and has produced playing wear for Ireland's top teams - whatever the pursuit - ever since.  In addition, O'Neills has been the supplier of choice for much of the world's Gaelic sport teams - and there are plenty - and currently even provides FC United of Manchester with their strip.

In fact, O'Neills has hit the kit design headlines recently due to a shirt made for a Gaelic football (and hurling) club based in London - St Mary's University College.  It's a beautiful piece of work, and destined to become a cult classic due to being sponsored by Buckfast - a tonic wine particularly beloved by the Scots and Irish, but it does have two flaws.

The first issue I take with the shirt is a general concern regarding the sleeves.  O'Neill's has constantly been the subject of rumour surrounding its use of the three stripes on its items, but these - or certainly two of the three - are missing from the St Mary's shirt.  Aesthetically it matters little - it arguably would be an unnecessary addition, but it is an omission brought by limitation rather than choice.

The fantastic GAA kit blog Pride In The Jersey by Denis Hurley puts this far better than I ever could, but the omission is as a result of court proceedings whereby the German sportswear giant adidas attempted to block O'Neills from using the three stripes.  The Irish company prevailed in their own land, meaning anything designed to be worn and sold on the island of Ireland could carry the distinctive markings, but for everything sent overseas at least one stripe should be removed - even to the extent of O'Neills producing foreign versions of their domestic range, which inevitably leads to many people ordering the original version and having it delivered to an Irish address and then asking a kind soul to foward it on.

In this world of common markets, intercontinental trade and the internet, it seems staggering that adidas do not go further and try to get a European decision to overrule the Irish courts, especially with O'Neills apparently being particularly brazen in some of their adidas-lite designs over the years.

The truth may be more complicated.  adidas has a significant history in Ireland - not least through the A-list designs it bestowed upon Cork City via the nearby factory (available for your perusal thanks to, again, Denis Hurley) and it wouldn't surprise me if there was regular liaison between adidas and O'Neills' marketing and design teams and perhaps even licensing of outdated templates with slight variations.

Where the similarity ends, certainly in recent years, also provides the second problem I have with the St Mary's shirt.  Sublimation is a cheap printing technique now generally only used - in anything other than watermarks or patterns - by downmarket teamwear brands.  Unfortunately, and despite a range including some glorously embroidered crests, sublimation is the most common approach in most of O'Neills kits, for badges and sponsors.  This is a real pity as so many details would look far superior if even heat transfers were applied rather than one piece of material containing all the features of the shirt.

But on the whole this is a minor gripe.  The shirt has a cult standing to compare with many from the association football world and the conundrum of O'Neills/adidas continues to entertain me far more than it should.  The only thing left is to decide who in Ireland I can get to send me O'Neills' version of the 1993-95 Liverpool home socks.


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Something I touched on recently in The Second Best Titled Blog Article Ever™ (I'm, naturally, also responsible for the best) that deserves expanding on is the yin to the rise of the baselayer's glorious yang - the demise of long-sleeved football shirts.

As wrapped up as I've been in celebrating the - as yet not entirely tapped - possibilities of undergarments, I've perhaps negected to pay true tribute to the mainstay of football through the ages, which is now seriously under threat.

The long-sleeved shirt was, in what we'll call 'my day', the standard form of football shirt in every level below professional.  Coupled with a size label with at least one X, it meant cuffs to grip onto on a wet Sunday morning and, due to its roomy shielding of puny forearms, one less complex to deal with on the pitch.  As well as the only option in early nineties l'Olympique de Marseille shirts, it also provided the most sought after replica for Liverpool and Celtic - a thirst that was rarely quenched.

Things have changed.  Continental (please forgive the retro phraseology) long-sleeved shirts are as tricky to locate as their UK cousins and teamwear is now regularly available and acquired in short-sleeved variations.  In the Premier League, where once players would be the envy of the fan by having options when it came to sleeve length, it now appears that less is more (it's what one does with it that counts) and relative dinosaurs such as the finally declining David Beckham represent the luddites wearing their hearts below the elbow.

This seems more calculated than simple organic progress.  I asserted that fans do wear baselayers but perhaps I'm playing directly into the hands of the club(shop)s and manufacturers by feeling this way.  If the club-specific baselayers being alluded to by Everton and Hull City are the way forward then the sums are quite simple; if a short-sleeved shirt retails at £50 and a baselayer at £25 then this combined purchase - markup allowing - trumps a long-sleeved shirt's potential £60 - especially if the club shop consistently 'runs out' of the last item.

But what cannot be replaced is the satisfying - often, literally, seamless - continuity of a full length sleeve.  Which may be why that appears to be consigned to the dustbin of history.  adidas stripes have long been broken on the sleeve (elaborating on the reasons for that decision may be an article for the future) and this season's Manchester City away shirt, in long-sleeved form, is little more than the short-sleeved version with black extensions tacked on beneath the hem.  Yes, the upper part actually flaps over the lower section.  Remind anyone of anything?

The new France away kit was unveiled almost inferring a necessity for it to be worn with a baselayer, despite the exaggerated cuffs which once signaled the break between fabric and skin.  Its Gaultier-inspired predecessor was so seldom obtainable in long-sleeved that it provided a cruel false dawn for Gallic onion, baguette and bicycle sellers heralding a seemingly inevitable boost in revenue; perhaps its use of hoops sitting uneasily with a plain undershirt signed its death warrant.  Equally it seems improbable that the next Arsenal shirt, if leaked images are to be believed, will relocate its substantial cuffs between the versions.  The future seems to be a world of long-sleeved shirts, should they survive, being almost indistinguishable from a short-sleeve/baselayer combination.

I'm still to be challenged on the theory that Manchester United do not have long-sleeved Home and Away shirts this season - certainly in player issue form - and what the big boys do the rest generally follow.  I have no problem with myths about long-sleeved shirts keeping us warm being exploded and the cliché of scoffing at a footballer combining gloves with short sleeves is ignorant in the extreme, but, as much as I love the baselayer and relish its future, the long-sleeved football shirt and the timeless design it encompasses will undoubtedly be missed, should it indeed prove to be doomed.


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Firstly, an apology. I did come up with the title myself but it seems as though the cycling community got there first. And second.
 
And as art so often imitates life, those pesky cyclists have set the bar for how to carry off undergarments and accessories to complement their activity's standard outerwear.
 
Fittingly, one of the earliest additions to shirt, shorts and socks that were seen on the football pitch with any great regularity were the humble cycling shorts.  Since then fashion and sports science/performance technology development has led to additional items appearing - not least the cycling shorts' apparent heir, the Kinesio tape - and imaginative combinations guaranteed every weekend.
 
The most popular of these additions is surely the baselayer. So commonly worn with the short-sleeved shirt - to allow sweat to be drawn away from the skin and regulate temperature as a consequence - that its long-sleeved equivalent is considered by some to be on its way to extinction. As far as I've noticed no Manchester United player has worn their 2011/12 Home or Away shirts in long-sleeved. In fact, many onlookers are convinced that neither player issue versions were even put into production.  Instead, a short-sleeved shirt worn over a long-sleeved baselayer - despite any unwelcome comparisons with early 1990s grunge-influenced fashions - is now preferable to the long-sleeved shirt of yore.
 
Umbro and England did try to buck this trend, with mixed results. Their 2010-11 Away shirt was designed to combine the benefits of a long-sleeved shirt with those of a baselayer. Star man Wayne Rooney responded by debuting the short-sleeved version with a baselayer.
 
The baselayer shows no signs of having a shelf-life. If anything, its future seems to include development and progression.
 
The Irish company O'Neills have pioneered, it seems accidentally, the idea of having baselayers which match sleeves independently rather than simply reflecting the primary colour of the shirt or matching one sleeve of an asymmetrical outer layer. To date none of the Gaagle baselayers seems to perfectly suit the kit of their respective GAA counties, and players continue to wear white/black "model's own" versions regardless of their kits' colours, but we hope the penny will shortly drop.  Mismatching is not necessarily a bad thing - I regularly wear a red "baselayer" (size too small England 2006 Away shirt) with my Barcelona 2002 Away and have advocated the wearing of a sky blue baselayer with the current England Away - but there should always be the option to achieve brachial continuity.
 
Falling short on this front are Blackburn and Sunderland. Blackburn have one white sleeve and one blue but wear white baselayers; Sunderland have red and white sleeves with a black cuff but wear red baselayers. Both are inadequate and whilst with the latter I would argue that black should be used as a continuation of the cuff, a red and white striped example would appease the rulemakers who decree that baselayers should match the colour of the shirt (despite the fact that any player wearing short sleeves no longer has matching forearms to any teammate in long sleeves).
 
Every time I have seen Arsenal wearing their navy/light blue Away shirt this season I have crossed my fingers that a player would turn out in a sufficiently matching baselayer. Unfortunately, in contrast to United's eschewing of long-sleeved shirts, that is the version Arsenal have worn most regularly - by way of dictation from their captain - and have managed to avoid the unsatisfactory coupling of alternate-sleeved short-sleeved shirt with one colour baselayer.  
 
Is this partly because Nike are yet to provide baselayers produced specifically to match their teams' shirts? If so then we may be about to see progress on that front. Everton have signed a new contract with Nike which includes a bespoke Pro Combat range. It may be leap to suggest Everton will have one white sleeve on their Home shirt next season and a baselayer to match, but it may be a step in the right direction, meaning bizarre sights such as Paddy McCourt wearing a white turtleneck under a Hooped short-sleeved Celtic Home shirt could be a thing of the past.
 
Until then though, any creativity or concessions to the sartorial will have to be limited to what is available to the footballers.  And to us - for I dispute the exclamation, made in my direction whilst watching the Blackburn-Manchester United game with friends last night, that "fans don't wear baselayers!"  

There are options, as demonstrated by rebellious Hull City players wearing black instead of amber/yellow sleeves, Joe Hart carrying clashing - but somehow working - green versions of the enduring favourite, the cycling short, the overlooked practice of tape and outer supports entirely altering sock appearance and Mario Balotelli going with, naturally, skeleton gloves rather than, say, the fantastic examples from Under Armour currently being blacked out by the Spurs kitman keen to avoid enranging current supplier Puma.
 
It is Balotelli who so nearly hit the nail on the head when lifting his Manchester City shirt to display a retro shoddily printed message on his baselayer.  The real question we should ask is this:
 
"Why always plain?"
 

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At last, Team GB has its kit for the 2012 Olympic Games.  And, sure enough, it's controversial.

To many the launch of the football kit - which I'll focus on for the sake of brevity - comes as a surprise.  Not to me, not to Football Shirt Culture regulars and I'd guess not to many of the modest number that read this blog, but plenty assumed that the kit released last year, when the storm over the other 'Home' nations reluctance to release players for the tournament was at its peak, was the playing wear for the Games.  It was, in fact, absolutely shameless opportunism from various marketing entities - particularly demonstrated by the prococative use of Welshman Gareth Bale in publicity shots - but sadly plenty fell for it and didn't realise that its labelling of "Supporters Kit" meant that it would never feature on the pitch.  Part of me died inside every time I overheard someone in the street exclaim something along the lines of "I'm gonna get that Team GB kit!  It's well nice!"

It wasn't the Team GB kit, and it wasn't well nice.

It was cheap, tacky and dated.  Three things that could never be levelled at Stella McCartney's wonderful creation for adidas.  I speak as someone who has designed a relatively well-received Team GB shirt which featured on the talkSPORT website, but I bow down to Ms McCartney's disregard of templates, conformity and any clamour for a more literal representation of the Union Jack.

Because, as you may have heard, despite the main graphic on the shirt being a stylised version of the British flag, there is a lot of blue - various shades - and not as much red.  This means the crosses of St George and St Patrick are portrayed using alternate sections of the spectrum or, for some, entirely misrepresented.

And it works.  It works brilliantly and the elephant in the room is that the Union Jack - or Union Flag, to give it its proper name - could never have been used in its traditional form.  This is the first Olympics for decades that will feature a British football team and replica football shirt sales - for every nation - will dwarf anything that has gone before.  To join the dots for you, the right-wing morons that abandoned their devotion to England shirts when Umbro released the Hoxton-friendly "pink crosses" design after the South African World Cup fiasco have been after something to fill the void ever since.  They may not have plumped for a TECHFIT PowerWEB version but a Climacool red white and blue Great Britain shirt would have been just the ticket for an English Defence League march.

The Union Jack is crude.  Whatever debates people have over imperialist pasts the fact remains that in 2012 the Union Jack evokes images of the worst examples of nationalism veering into racism.  We may not have the public opinion to remove it as the national flag - certainly not when so many continue to bellow an equally offensive anthem - but in the hands of the fashion world's glitterati it was never going to be anything other than toned down, especially once McCartney's mind was made up that the angular structure would be the focal point of the shirt.  Therein lies the secret to its success.  Even if anyone still needs to satisfy their ereuthophilia, and can't wait for the likely all-red away kit, then combining the shirt with a Tyrone Gaagle baselayer from GAA specialists O'Neills would work a treat.  That'll stick it to 'em.

The alternative approach would have been to follow Umbro's lead in using the colour scheme but not the geometry, as featured in the quite open nod to the ikurrin displayed on everyone's latest favourite shirt, the Athletic Bilbao away.  Schitzophrenic Umbro are somewhat more coy about admitting any similarities between the Rangers away shirt and the Union Jack, which is surprising after they seemingly had no issue with putting their double diamond on an orange Linfield shirt,  

For me, McCartney rightly ignored the Umbro twist and instead used the tradition of the flag in such a brilliantly measured way - taking the right risks - that the shirt will be lauded in due course.  If the Daily Mail has a problem with it, compounded with its issues concerning naturalised and dual-nationality athletes taking prominent positions for Britain at the Games, then it merely acts as an endorsement of the delight which has met the launch.

 

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